The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the near-constant road noise. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds gather.
It is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines sagging with round mauve grapes on a sprawling garden plot situated between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce wine from several discreet city grape gardens tucked away in private yards and allotments across the city. It is sufficiently underground to possess an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the World
To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming world atlas, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of the French capital's renowned artistic district area and over 3,000 grapevines overlooking and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has discovered them all over the world, including cities in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help cities remain more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the earth the vines grow in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who tend the grapes. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and history of a city," adds the spokesperson.
Unknown Polish Grapes
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to harvest the grapevines he grew from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the rain arrives, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and rotten grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
Additional participants of the group are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of fall precipitation. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, unexpectedly inherited the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the garden of their new home. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking
Nearby, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over 150 vines perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she says, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, Scofield, 60, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines slung across the hillside with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to Netflix's Great National Parks series and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that hobbyists can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can command prices of upwards of seven pounds a glass in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an traditional method of making wine."
"When I tread the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the juice," explains the winemaker, partially submerged in a container of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the natural cultures and then incorporate a commercially produced culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the nearby estuary. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by winegrowers. Reeve has had to install a barrier on